Time for Temples

After a couple more hectic days in Vietnam, it was time to for a long haul bus up to siem reap, the home for one of, for me, the greatest wonders of the world. after a 12 hour journey and a short tuk tuk ride into the heart of siem reap we were ready to go exploring. although it was late at night, so we opted to for the comfortable guest house instead. after a cracking curry and a room of air conditioning, we felt rested and ready for the next day's adventures.

For our first day we went for the tuk tuk tour arranged by our guest house proprietor, the driver may have been a slightly over zealous in the corners but he definitely knew his way around the complex. we started off at the legendary Angkor Wat the most symbolic landmark of Cambodia an the flagship attraction, so much so it is included on their flag. The temple has been adopted by many religions over the years, but this does not detract from the majesty of the place. It is truly as spectacular as the various post card images you have probably seen. Even with a bit of scaffolding on the outside it was still an extraordinary visit. We had already bookmarked here for a couple more visits in the next few days. A great place to unleash your inner Indiana Jones.

After witnessing such a famous landmark, the next location was always going to struggle to overwhelm us. However I must state that the Angkor archaeological parks other sites did not disappoint. the complex of temples are stunning and each has a slightly different character and each bringing its own charm and atmosphere. The rest of the complex as you can imagine is quite as grand as Angkor Wat, however it is fascinating and the temples are worth way more than just a quick look. The complex is vast and needs more than a day to visit, happily we had another two days here and would be visiting next time via bicycle.

all along the mekong

HCM is by far the most buzzing and atmospheric city I have been to. It is one of those places where it feels like anything could happen around the next corner. There is something to amaze you at every turn from communist poster propaganda to a plethora of motorbikes. After a few days in the city we decided to head to one of the great rivers in Asia, the mekong river.

not having any transport in Vietnam we opted for a simple tour to take care of all the stresses for us. A couple of hours on a mini bus and we were straight onto a boat cruising down the river, witnessing first hand the size of the river and the people who rely on it for trade. At one point we switched from our motorized boat into a traditional Vietnamese sampan. The boat took us down a waterway off of the main river and we got to enjoy  a peaceful and  idyllic ride with tropical trees and plants surrounding us. This was by far the highlight on our tour

The tour also featured some exotic fruit tasting, an authentic Vietnamese meal (apparently), a ride in a tuk tuk and a visit to a coconut factory. The tour was a slightly different experience as for the most part we had not used tours to organize visits.The time on the water was awesome, As I tend to like anything involving water, but some of the tour was a bit lacklustre.I would have preferred to go by ourselves, although the tour was relatively cheap and saved us some hassle.

Having experienced our first tour we gave another one a chance, this time to the cu chi tunnels, a remnant of a guerilla warfare in the Vietnam war. our guide described the tunnel complex as hell on earth to US soldiers and it definitely looked like it from our perspective. The traps are lethal and inflict severe wounds to any unfortunate enough to be caught by them. The tunnels are an impressive feat and you can even go through some of the widened ones. It is pretty cool to crawl through the old tunnels, not for claustrophobia sufferes though, and gives you some idea of the conditions in the war. Tanks and recreations of the war are dotted about and our guide gave us some informative details of the sites significance and importance in the war. Also if your a gun fan you can even let fly some bullets with a choice of guns on a shooting range. If your dream is to shoot an AK-47, head to the cu chi tunnels.

To summarize our couple of days doing tours in Vietnam I would say this,great locations which are must do's in HCM and doing tours is helpful. although I'm not sold on them, I think not having freedom to walk at your own pace can be irritating, and the tours reminded me a bit of school trips. Still I can't really complain as they did introduce me to some great sights

Good Morning Vietnam and several thousand bikes

In a lot of my previous posts I've mentioned the general hustle and bustle of Asian Cities, whether its the mass of people or the hectic traffic. I would like to state these prior descriptions are inaccurate compared to the overwhelming number of bikes on the road in Vietnam. My first introduction into the Vietnamese traffic was an interesting one for sure. Arriving in Ho Chi Minh city (formally Saigon) the sheer number of bikes surrounding you is incalculable. The myriad of bikes carry an astonishing amount ranging from plastic bottles to entire families. If you stand long enough on any street corner in HCM, you are in for a treat as inevitably you will be left incredulous as to the array and quantities the Vietnamese can load onto a bike. The second thing you will want to do is cross the road, just to see how the chaos reacts to your presence. Even crossing the road in Vietnam is exciting.

Traveling to Vietnam has been a relatively recent ambition of mine. My first glimpse into the country was from the top gear special, where the presenters used bikes to travel the length of the country. Having watched the program my immediate reaction was simply I want to go there. Vietnam looked as if it had everything you could want, whether it being acquiring a tailored suit to eating exotic food. Another compelling factor for me was to see one of the last communist countries still operating today. Vietnam alongside Laos, China and Cuba are the only remaining communist governments in power today. Reading about revolutionary leaders and highly socialist regimes has long been fascinating for me, a chance to see it first hand is a great opportunity.

After accustoming to the inconsistent traffic of Vietnam we headed to our first destination of the day, the war remnants museum. Visits to this museum are imperative, for many people Vietnam is not seen as a country but as a war. The museum gives powerful insight into the horrors of warfare. The most harrowing exhibit was the effects of agent orange, a toxic herbicide that left large deformities to those unfortunate enough to be exposed to it. The effects of the herbicide are still being felt today whether new generations showing side effects from the toxin. The exhibit features foetuses that have been corrupted and deformed by the herbicide, it is a particularly gruesome display. The museum also features many pictures and statements of various torture techniques used by the U.S. Military such as water boarding. There were many tearful people from a variety of nations, who could see the atrocities committed in this country. I would not state it was just the American military who performed such acts, The museum does have a bias towards it though. A visit to the museum may not be a comfortable one, but it is most definitely a necessary one.

Moving along to a less macabre topic, one of the greatest attractions Vietnam has is its multitude of parks. In the U.K. our parks tend to be a dull and wearisome visit, Conversely Vietnam's parks are full of life and people genuinely enjoying themselves in green spaces. There are numerous exercise machines, exercise classes take place here and Badminton players are sharpening their skills on the nets. It is great to see people having fun in their parks and enjoying their public spaces. A second great thing about the park is the local students trying to hone their English skills. These students will approach you in the park and ask to speak with you. Speaking to the locals about where each of you come from and what living there is like, is one of the experiences I will certainly remember. 

To finish the day in Vietnam, we went to a water puppet show. Usually this a tradition which is usually performed in the north of the country, fortunately for us the popularity of such shows mean it is being shown in the south as well. The show consists of puppeteers controlling their puppets whilst underwater, a feat not to be scorned at. It is very impressive how they can manipulate the puppets expertly, whilst focusing on not emerging to the water surface. The show is definitely worth seeing even if you cannot comprehend the language (it's all in vietnamese), the show has something for everybody and is quite the spectacle.

elephants and temples

After seeing one of nature's most picturesque waterfall displays at Erawan National Park it was time to get up close with some equally impressive animals. As we were in Thailand, this of course means going to meet with elephants. The place we had chosen was Elephant world located in Kanchanaburi Provence. There is much ethical ambiguity of riding elephants for tourism in Thailand, some condemn the practice others applaud it. Not wanting to sit in one of the basket seats we opted of spend the day with the elephants at elephants world.

Here's a bit of information about Elephants world, it is a non profit organization founded in 2008. In essence it is a retirement home for elephants from the tourism or other  industry that have become too old and tired to perform the tasks set for them. In previous years Elephants have been used in the logging industry, which has since been made illegal circa 1989 in Thailand. Elephants are no longer financially viable as they used to and many end up abandoned, I feel this is a tragedy to happen to such majestic animals who have been embedded in Thai culture for countless years. Elephants world cares for these retired and abandoned elephants, with guests working for them, through preparing food, washing them and feeding them.

Immediately as you enter you will see elephants roaming around the complex, the baby elephant is a particularly special sight to see. After a briefing about the animals and the days activities,  first we fed the elephants, a unique experience and the elephants do live up to the stereotype as gentle giants.We proceeded to watch the elephants have their morning bath, making for some great photo opportunities. Throughout the day we prepared food and gathered resources for the elephants. The cherry on the cake was swimming and bathing with the elephants, you even get a short bare back ride on top of them. I would encourage other travelers to head here if they would like to see elephants, as you are helping rather than hindering these gentle creatures.

After our time in Kanchanaburi we were heading to Ayutthaya, an ancient capitol full of working temples and ruins to act as reminder as to the former opulence of this city. It was previously a premier trading city in south east asia, but sadly no longer. Walking around the parks you will witness the various ruins and again makes for ample photography practice. Ayutthaya is a pleasant place to simply stroll around and come across a something that grabs your attention. The ruins and temples are not the most spectacular in all of Thailand, but they do provide a nice getaway from the tumult of Bangkok. The markets were also by far the coolest we came across in Thailand, hands down I had the best food here. Its worth a visit just for the markets.

To summarize Thailand I would say The country certainly has a lot to offer to the whole spectrum of travelers. There are the pristine beaches, the striking landscapes, exotic wildlife, Exquisite food and a mix between the modern and the old. I enjoyed my time in Thailand, but I don't crave to go back there as with some of my other travel destinations. Thailand has a large tourist industry directed at westerners and a sense of adventure can sometimes be lost.  However this shouldn't detract from the multiple offerings of the country as it is still a gateway to south east Asia

Bridge over the River Kwai

After our time in Bangkok, we were off to Kanchanaburi home of the famous river and the infamous bridge. Our main reasons for coming to Kanchanaburi was for both the history and the elephants. We decided to omit the beach resorts in southern Thailand as we weren't keen for full moon parties or a party atmosphere. Don't get me wrong I've nothing against the beaches on southern Thailand, in fact the beaches do look extraordinary and I would like to visit them, we just preferred to head to Kanchanaburi Provence.

The region features the famous river Kwai and we were lucky enough to stay on the river itself. The guesthouse had rooms floating on the river an are accessible by a pier. It was a cool place to relax, as speed boats raced past and occasionally somebody might go for a swim. I decided against it, the river is not exactly crystal clear. Best of all about the guesthouse it was only a short walk away to the bridge.

The bridge was originally constructed in world war 2 by 16,000 prisoners of war and over 90,000 Asian workers, a large amount being slaves. The bridge is a part of the death railway that goes through Thailand and Myanmar. The railway is named as such due to the shear number of people who dies trying to complete this railway for the empire of Japan, mostly the Asian workers. The original bridge was bombed by American Soldiers and what we see today is the reconstruction by the Japanese.

The bridge itself is traversable on foot as metal plates have been put across the length of the bridge. The railway track is also operational, with trains traveling on it just as they had done in WW2. The bridge offers spectacular views of the river and walking across it gives you a chill, thinking about how many lives had been lost in order to create this railway. The bridge was a sombre experience, but I am very glad we went there a I do enjoy learning about the history of the second world war. In the U.K. we tend to learn about the western fronts and do not particularly focus on the east and the pacific. The accompanying museums by the bridge are also a great way to learn about the history of this area. The common wealth war graves located about a mile away from the bridge also give you a notion of just how many people died in the creation of the bridge and railway

The next day lead us from a historic lesson into one of natures masterpieces. The Erawan national park is located just over an hour away from kanchanburi, and is accessible by the local buses. The park has 7 tiers of different waterfalls, each as magnificent as the last. The ascent to the top was well worth the effort required as you are rewarded with stunning views and even a swim in the natural pool. The waters are perfect from colour to temperature and a each tier there is the opportunity of swim by the respective waterfall.  You can even get a cheeky jump into them off of nearby rocks. The local wildlife are also something to watch out for in this park. The local monkeys hang about looking for any cast away food, best not to feed them though. The waterfalls are a great day out and being able to swim in a natural pool beneath a waterfall in Thailand is about as good as it gets.

Bangkok Bound

If there is one country that is synonymous with backpacking it has to be Thailand. Thailand summons up thoughts of the quintessential travelling experience, whether it be riding a tuk tuk or just relaxing on the beach with a beer in hand. As we designed our trip, Thailand was one of the first countries we listed as wanting to visit, and the first place to visit was of course Bangkok.

Bangkok is one of the most visited cities in the world, It is the gateway to other regions of Thailand as well as being a city to explore in its own right. So after a relatively short flight from Nepal, we arrived in Bangkok and straight onto the MRT. Its essentially the same as the tube in London, except its overground and much newer. The MRT is a great way of getting around the city and has stops in most major areas, it is direct method of travelling, but not the most picturesque.

For our initial stay in Bangkok, we omitted visiting the famous Khao San road. I know its the usual place for backpackers to stay, but we decided to go against the status quo. We stayed in Silom instead and as it turned out stayed in the coolest hostel we had ever visited. It's called the mile map hostel, it offers cheap room rates, alongside a world map theme. Various different maps and globes adorn the place and the hostel has a pretty laid back vibe. Another plus of staying here was the famous Thai street food, just a short walk down the street lead us straight to a delicious Tom Yum soup. Our introduction into south east Asia was going pretty well, clean and efficient transport, great hostel and cracking food.

First day in Bangkok and we went straight for the grand palace, all dressed up due to their clothing policies. I can respect the dress code, but it did not help with the humidity. Getting to the Palace we opted for the boats that transport people along the Chao Phraya river. Floating down the river you can see the multiple sky scrapes and other features of the city, such as china town. The most spectacular thing you'll see on the boats though is Wat Arun also known as the temple of dawn. The temple dominates your attention from the second you see it. It is a striking temple and looks fantastic as you cruise along the river.

  Grand is the optimum description for this palace, featuring some truly extravagant buildings and statues, no expense was spared in this creation. The gilded architecture and jade Buddhist sculpture make this complex a must see for any Bangkok visitor. The former home of the kings of Thailand eludes grandeur at each turn, and despite the relatively high entrance price, it is definitely worth going.

The following day we went to see Khao san road, we felt we should at least witness the place to see what all the fuss is about. The place does have a travel buzz circulating around it with numerous western travelers strolling around, seeking out food or a cheap souvenir. Khao San road was a culture clash, where Thailand meets the west. In truth I'm glad we saw the famous road and even more glad we did not stay here. There was nothing necessarily wrong with the place, it just wasnt for us. After Khao san road it was onto the siam shopping centre. Comparing places as "just like in a sci-fi film" has grown both outdated and cliche. That being said it is exactly how I would describe it here.Anything you could want is in this place and the whole atmosphere is just awesome. There are ice rinks, cinemas and ample shopping. Siam is now the bench mark I will compare any shopping center to, after visiting here.

Bangkok is a buzzing city that has excitement flowing through it. The city is the start to many adventures in Thailand and it felt just like that for us. Bangkok was a great start and now it was time to see  more of Thailand

Final days in Kathmandu

Our time in Nepal was already a thrilling experience, a mixture of adrenalin sports and exposure to a whole new culture. After our return from the Bungy jump, we began to look forward to some of the landmarks and sights of Kathmandu again. First place to go to the Boudhanath.

Even the taxi over to Boudha introduced a new perspective on the treatment of cows. Having lived a significant portion of my life in rural somerset, seeing cows is a pretty common sight to me. Although I have never seen one dictate traffic by simply refusing to move. The predominantly Hindi majority place great reverence towards these animals and was  a high contrast to how we perceive cows in Britain, Seeing a cow position itself freely in the middle of the road and the drivers negotiating around the animal was not unexpected, but still a nice surprise on our journey.

The Boudhanath Stupa was again festooned in the iconic prayer flags and featured the famous eyes of buddha. Boudhanath is one of the most popular and important buddhists sites in Nepal, there was no shortage of Monks here. You are even able to walk on top of the stupa, making sure you do so clockwise. There are also numerous shops, restaurants and hotels located around the square, meaning plenty of opportunities to pick up some food or a souvenir. Boudhanath is a grand and spiritual place, just as swayambhunath. I think overall I preferred Swayambhunath, mainly due to its views of the valleys and of course its resident rhesus monkeys. Boudhanath is still a must do in Kathmandu and walking around the Stupa and spinning the prayer wheels is a great experience.

That night we got the privilege of seeing an epic thunderstorm. Watching from our rooftop garden in Thamel, we were treated to spectacular lightning seldom seen in the U.K. I have always enjoyed a good thunderstorm and this one didn't disappoint. Moreover, the weather the following day was blue skies and pleasant temperatures. In essence the perfect day to visit the garden of dreams. The gardens are close to Thamel and have been helped maintain by the Austrian government. It seemed a strangle collaboration, but did not detract from the gardens. The various elephant statues, ponds full of gold fish and exotic flowers created a peaceful environment to simply sit back and relax. Amazingly you could not even hear the chaotic traffic outside of the gardens walls.After a few hectic days in both Nepal and Egypt, the gardens were great just to sit back and relax. unfortunately the weather turned on us later, so we treated back to Thamel for some dinner and more shopping. I  managed to get a good price on a singing bowl, I had been seeking one for quite some time.

Our final day in Kathmandu and also in Nepal, and we decided to go to Durbar Square. The square is filled with an assortment of temples and palaces. The museum in particular gave great insight into the history of Nepal. The square was another highlight and even the stray dags seemed to be enjoying their surroundings

The architecture in Durbar Square was outstanding and is worth a visit, to simply learn more about Nepali culture and History. Now there was just the walk back to the guesthouse, and we stumbled across another smaller Buddhist temple. The ubiquitous flags adorned the place and some of the local children were playing some football. For me this was an example of a city, where you can take one turn and be lead to something unexpected and magnificent.

My only regret about my visit to Nepal was I wish it were longer. I thoroughly enjoyed my time here and feel more educated and cultured than before I came out here. Seeing the country where Buddhism began alongside its spectacular architecture and natural surrounding was truly special. We spent the majority of our time in Kathmandu and did not get to see as much of the country that we would have liked. However this does have the added bonus that we will have to come back to this magnificent country and do one of its famous hiking trails. Visiting Pokhara, the lowlands and the Himalayas will have to wait until I return here, so for now I will remember my own time here and fondly reminisce about this country. Nepal did have one final send off for us, on the plane to our next destination, we did get to witness the Himalaya mountain range from the plane., serving as further enticement back to this mystic and exciting land.